I prefer crates for longer periods of unsupervised confinement, and carriers for various transportation options, and light mobile confinement.
Offer more protection
Preferred for vehicle travel
Less protection than crate
More mobile, easy to transport
Perfect for light traveling & confinement
If your dog struggles with this, it may be a sign that we need to do some more work on general leash handling.
But, in many cases, if you utilize good leash handling, & patience, you should be able to work most dogs through this.
Don’t worry about your dog staying in the crate at the beginning of this exercise. We want our dogs to understand that they can remove leash pressure by getting in the crate, so that we can sway their decisions in the future.
With this much leash pressure and Handling practice, you should be able to guide your dog into a crate or carrier without fuss.
This is what it can look like with practice!
Once you can get your dog into the crate without issue, it’s important that you can be able to close the door.
When you start this, always work with baby steps. Don’t get your dog into the crate for the first time, and then keep them in for a work day.
If your dog isn’t apprehensive about the crate, then you can start getting them used to moving the crate, and staying inside the crate sooner.
I like to have an implied duration for my crate or carrier commands, much like a Place command and I teach the duration the same way. I really don’t like it when dogs burst from the door as soon as it has been opened.
We can achieve this by using a combo of duration rewards, but also leash pressure to guide the dog back into the crate if necessary.