Maelyn

A couple of thoughts;

• Distance - even just a couple of steps away can make a difference between a dog over and under threshold
• Distraction - can a temp divider be put up where this pair can move behind it when needed?  Even a solid or material crate (dog variety) can work.
• Distraction - maybe having rest of class stop and work on stays and attention at this point might make a difference (but agree that not  always practical in a class set up - particularly at a club)
• pre/home work - give them the basics of what to do the week before so they practice at home before trying in this situation (which you and they can't largely control).  Emphasise making it like Christmas - treats of top quality rain on my head when i look at you?  Going to do that again!)  Then they might stand a better chance in class
• Luring - make sure dog knows holds treats - that the dog is so hooked its like a dog magnet even in this environment and then start with just withholding (closed palm) or just out of reach - i.e. at a lower level so that it is more likely to over ride other distractions and then work to arms out - if that's how you teach it
• Capturing - give the class a challenge.  Before actively teaching this get them to just watch their dogs throughout the class and everytime their dog looks at them (during an hour even this dog is likely too) and hyper reward until dog gets the idea
• Luring - slight movement, or major movement if needed, noises or something else might stimulate at least the briefest glance towards the owner/handler
• Break it down more - go for any head, ear or movement towards paying attention (may need to use some of the luring ideas), mark and reward.  Timing is important as is moving the criteria up until the dog gets the idea - but little by little - don't expect a full head turn and eye - he/she just can't/isn't ready to give it in this situation
• train the dog then train the handler (usually a novice).  it's easier if you can (I know some trainers, clubs and owners aren't up for it) but if you can take the dog and teach them the basics - as your ability to click (and i would suggest click for this if you need to slice behaviour very thinly to get learning happening) is likely to be so much better.  Then transfer it (at least with the dog having some understanding) to the owner.
• Timing - do the activity immediately after something active and engaging for the dog where they have been giving attention so that when that activity (play or whatever behaviour/s) stops the dog is more likely to seek/look for more
• Distraction again - see if you can spend some time before or after the class when others aren't around or so much happening and spend some time with them.

Let me know if you think any of these might help - or spark another idea that will.

Wow Leanne, lots of great ideas in there! I especially like the point on timing. Usually I like to start with focus exercises, but maybe I should start with something more fun first then the dogs are more likely to pay attention.

Emily - No, you don't have to. 

Maelyn, You and Ben are right, I'd be working in a less distracting environment if possible and prioritizing engagement.  If the club is an 8 out of 10 (10 high) on the distraction scale, see if you can dial back. Distance and barriers might help.

First make sure the dog is interested in you without prompting - as you suggested (more engagement).  If they choose you over the distractions, you can start teaching simple things like focus. I wouldn't try and teach too much until i've got a dog bought in.

Also make sure the dogs come hungry. And aside from that I would want to teach the dog leash skills (like I raise the leash up (leash cue) and dog knows to sit). I'd like leash work to be so well understood that I could use it to disrupt reactivity and shape behavior like sit, down, don't pull, etc.

If these are competitive obedience classes - the 'buy in' and pushiness is very important to me. If these are classes are geared more toward 'everyday owners' they may not want to take it to the level us crazy dog trainers do... and having some tactile inputs in place to ensure dogs aren't dragging owners around is a good thing. And all the killer info Leanne added would be on my checklist of options!

Leanne - please, always share your thoughts:) Incredible!

Thanks Forrest.  Perfect timing of the reinforcer -  as i've thought of a few more but wasn't sure whether to put them up or not.  As you've probably guessed I'm much more talkative in the online environment. 

well there goes with some other thoughts

• If someone else holds the leash and therefore the dog and the handler moves away do you think they dog will take any interest?  if so, that might be a way to lure the starting behaviour.
• How do the dog and handler do when arriving - i.e. in the carpark before class.  Perhaps this is a spot to practice before coming into class each week so that the dog has a bit more of a chance - most recently highly reinforced behaviour most likely to repeat stuff (unless the distractions are just too high)
• Get them to capture it at home and reward it every time they see it - should increase the behaviours likelihood (if they are good with timing and actually using something the  dog finds reinforcing).
• With the idea re you taking the dog through the basics first. You can take some of the pressure off the owner by using strategies such as using a dog you think might be in this situation to teach the behaviour to the rest of the class - depends on your comfort doing so and of course whether you can spot possible issues before you get to this point.
• Perhaps try dog on a spot - mat is popular or platform so the dog is highly reinforced for that then reinforcement stops suddenly -hopefully dog looks to where did that go.  The idea of the mat or platform is that there use can 'ground' some dogs by giving them something to think about doing.
• Try toy/food in a container they can't get into on the ground - when they look to human for help (can take time but most will do it) then major party and access to the containers contents.
• see if acting like a fool (something totally unusual for the dog /unexpected from their handler) will get their attention.  Be sure of your reading of the dog though - you don't want to frighten it or overload what might already be an over threshold animal.
• If worried about ability of handler to get timing - you can do the click or mark and they reward.
• The throw food down on ground - dog gets and looks back, mark and throw can also kick start the process for some.
• Just don't worry about it - it's in the syllabus but will the owner really care and will it not grow as they engage more with their dog in training and life anyway.  In other words take the pressure of you , the handler and the dog and get it engaged in movement or whatever behaviours it is capable of doing.  Unless of course owner wants it/needs it on cue - or to start being able to do this in class.
• wait it out - after class others left just wait it.  It can take forever the first time, but then each time should become quicker (if timing and what is used is actually heavily reinforcing.
• for every step in the right direction pay the bank big time - think  I said this but want to reinforce it's importance. If this becomes the best paid behaviour it will become more prevalent- however doesn't help you with starting it, just a reminder for the owners when they get even the first step if this is a behaviour they want strong. 
• final thought (promise).  Is the club class environment right for this dog and handler right now?  Don't know if it is or isn't but TTouch taught me that a whole range of behaviours (and non-behaviors) that I hadn't previously considered to be stress/anxiety that severely impacts on ability to learn are in fact just that.  Is the issue only with this behaviour or is there a need for the dog to be removed or just spend time being reinforced for being in the same place as all these moving things etc and not actually having to do anything for it.  Stuffed Kong under nearby tree just watching on instead of participating? You'll have to make a call - just sometimes it helps to stop and think about underlying causes (which i'm sure you do so hope this doesn't come off as a bit of a lecture).