Post all Module 4 questions as replies to this thread. Thanks!

This is my first interactive class, where do we watch the past live chats?

The module 2 one is in a topic on the discussion thread just with the title "m" 

Module 3 isn't up at time of posting but keep an eye on the discussion tab for a thre topic. 

I think Module 1 link was in a topic called Live Chat in the discussion tab

https://university.leerburg.com/Post/viewTopic/courseid/85/topicid/15904/page/1

Ahh there you go. A link to the first one..I think!

sweet, thanks. 

Must we put eye contact on cue? 

Not a question but a comment.  Has anyone else noticed a change in their dogs outside the training session (or even actually in).  Dyson has taken to just coming and standing in front of me like  - we going to do something? are we?  really.......can we......huh?  

Sorry - it turned out to be a question after all.

So Forrest it seem that 'pushiness' you talk about as a positive can find its way into a pushiness outside training times.  Love it - he's obviously enjoying the sessions (and the food) : )

Leanne - yes. Tango does seem to be more pushy these past couple of weeks, and I also love it :)

Question about the eye contact game. I teach classes at my club to "everyday" dogs, and I teach a game like the eye contact game when I take a lower level class. What do you do when you have a dog that is too distracted by everything else that's going on (the other people and other dogs mostly) that they never look at their handler? My guess would be to take a step back and work more on engagement?

I say eliminate the distractions until they have a solid foundation.  Wish there was a dog club in my area of west Texas... I needs more distractions :\

Ben - that's not always possible at the club. We usually have 7-8 classes of 10-12 dogs each in one big paddock (you would have seen the paddock in Cheryl and Mya's video from last week). So there's not always space to really spread everyone out (and some dogs are distracted despite the extra distance).

If you're after more distractions, take your dog down to the oval on a Sat morning while people are playing sport, or outside a dog park, or outside a hardware store or shopping centre!

Maelyn

A couple of thoughts;

• Distance - even just a couple of steps away can make a difference between a dog over and under threshold
• Distraction - can a temp divider be put up where this pair can move behind it when needed?  Even a solid or material crate (dog variety) can work.
• Distraction - maybe having rest of class stop and work on stays and attention at this point might make a difference (but agree that not  always practical in a class set up - particularly at a club)
• pre/home work - give them the basics of what to do the week before so they practice at home before trying in this situation (which you and they can't largely control).  Emphasise making it like Christmas - treats of top quality rain on my head when i look at you?  Going to do that again!)  Then they might stand a better chance in class
• Luring - make sure dog knows holds treats - that the dog is so hooked its like a dog magnet even in this environment and then start with just withholding (closed palm) or just out of reach - i.e. at a lower level so that it is more likely to over ride other distractions and then work to arms out - if that's how you teach it
• Capturing - give the class a challenge.  Before actively teaching this get them to just watch their dogs throughout the class and everytime their dog looks at them (during an hour even this dog is likely too) and hyper reward until dog gets the idea
• Luring - slight movement, or major movement if needed, noises or something else might stimulate at least the briefest glance towards the owner/handler
• Break it down more - go for any head, ear or movement towards paying attention (may need to use some of the luring ideas), mark and reward.  Timing is important as is moving the criteria up until the dog gets the idea - but little by little - don't expect a full head turn and eye - he/she just can't/isn't ready to give it in this situation
• train the dog then train the handler (usually a novice).  it's easier if you can (I know some trainers, clubs and owners aren't up for it) but if you can take the dog and teach them the basics - as your ability to click (and i would suggest click for this if you need to slice behaviour very thinly to get learning happening) is likely to be so much better.  Then transfer it (at least with the dog having some understanding) to the owner.
• Timing - do the activity immediately after something active and engaging for the dog where they have been giving attention so that when that activity (play or whatever behaviour/s) stops the dog is more likely to seek/look for more
• Distraction again - see if you can spend some time before or after the class when others aren't around or so much happening and spend some time with them.

Let me know if you think any of these might help - or spark another idea that will.

Wow Leanne, lots of great ideas in there! I especially like the point on timing. Usually I like to start with focus exercises, but maybe I should start with something more fun first then the dogs are more likely to pay attention.

Emily - No, you don't have to. 

Maelyn, You and Ben are right, I'd be working in a less distracting environment if possible and prioritizing engagement.  If the club is an 8 out of 10 (10 high) on the distraction scale, see if you can dial back. Distance and barriers might help.

First make sure the dog is interested in you without prompting - as you suggested (more engagement).  If they choose you over the distractions, you can start teaching simple things like focus. I wouldn't try and teach too much until i've got a dog bought in.

Also make sure the dogs come hungry. And aside from that I would want to teach the dog leash skills (like I raise the leash up (leash cue) and dog knows to sit). I'd like leash work to be so well understood that I could use it to disrupt reactivity and shape behavior like sit, down, don't pull, etc.

If these are competitive obedience classes - the 'buy in' and pushiness is very important to me. If these are classes are geared more toward 'everyday owners' they may not want to take it to the level us crazy dog trainers do... and having some tactile inputs in place to ensure dogs aren't dragging owners around is a good thing. And all the killer info Leanne added would be on my checklist of options!